Korea has a rich history, even though at times a very troubled one. As the peoples on the peninsula started to organize themselves into small societies 5000 years ago, the first nation-state to emerge on the western part of the peninsula was a small kingdom called Baekje. The capital once situated in present-day Seoul, the kingdom displays to this day remants of a wonderful and intricate culture. As Korea was divided into three kingdoms in its early history, Baekje was defeated by the northern Goguryo kingdom and forced to move its capital to Ungjin, or today's present day city of Gongju. That's where I went this weekend.
After a month fresh from my wonderful excursion to Taiwan, I have been working non-stop at my high school and just keeping a low profile on weekends. As the summer heat started to turn up its dial here in sauna-ready Korea, I felt like I wouldn't be going anywhere this term. However, after finishing up 4 straight days of extra conversation classes and getting ready for two summer camps, I needed a break! I opened up my Lonely Planet Korean guidebook, took a turn of the page, and after a friend's recommendation, I took a bus and headed to the small city of Gongju.
Gongju, while being one of the capitals of the Baekje Kingdom, has a special significance for my Korean family. My mother's family comes from this region of Korea, not Seoul. My mother was born in this province (Chungcheonnam-do), and her sister was born in this city I went to. Its a small city of 150,000, so the feel is more relaxed and quiet. The people don't seem as bewildered to see foreigners, but look on with a subtle curiosity. Unlike their Gyeongsang Province counterparts, the people have a more country-bumpkin hospitality like Americans in the South.
I trekked and visited some of the coolest sites from that period of history: the Tomb of King Muryeong, where these tombs were built in the style of huge burial mounds with immortality being the theme. The treasures and artefacts recovered from his tomb displayed the intricate style and detail from that time. From his royal diadem to his headrest, including all of his queen's ornamentation (am I Bush-ifying that last word?), these people knew what it meant to render services to their king.
What makes Baekje a special kingdom was their role in Northeast Asian affairs. They were the prime conduit of culture of China, taking and adapting Chinese properties of learning, political theory, and art while passing them on to the first peoples of Japan, called the Wae. In the video at the Baekje National Museum, you could see that artefacts discovered in places near Osaka and Nara (which I visited last summer) have a direct correlation with goods found in Gongju and Buyeo (which is near Gongju). Copy cats? Well, let's just say the Baekje were just sharing the knowledge.
I proceeded to the mighty Gongsansong Fortress, which displayed its fortitude over Gongju. A huge, and pretty much intact wall, this fortress was a Baekje defense aimed at thwarting future attacks by the northern Goguryo forces.
It was a beautiful sight to see as I surveyed my kingdom as the sun started to set. With the main gate in view, I imagined myself as a warrior defending the castle within just like the warriors of Rohan and the Elves were fighting the Uruk-hai in Lord of the Rings. It was like being a kid again.
I also read a passage in Psalm 91-2: "I will say of the LORD, He is my refuge and my fortress: my God; in Him will I trust." (KJV) Human fortresses get breached from time to time, and whole kingdoms fall. But the Kingdom of God is never penetrated as long as we taken refuge in Him. It was really assuring to read that passage at that exact time and place. Divine inspiration anyone?
The rest of the weekend was really hot but just peaceful. A small town gives a sense of quiet and I took it to my advantage to enjoy it.
I came back refreshed, and I kind of labeled the Baekje Kingdom "my fave kingdom," for their bravery as the underdog against the bigger kingdoms while being survivors. They were very instrumental in spreading culture among their neighbors while retaining an unique culture for their own.
They fell in 660AD after holding off onslaught after onslaught of troops. Problems, inner fighting, and overwhelming odds took their toll.
I'm still standing, in a Mighty Fortress.
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